Do you wish for the kind of yard that provides something to eat around every corner? If so, you are not alone. Edible landscaping is on the rise and Portland Nursery is the place to find everything you need to make your dream a reality.
We carry a huge selection of berries and small fruits that changes every year, so we post lists annually to help with planning. The lists are based on orders that are confirmed by our growers, so they reflect our best estimate of what to expect. However, we don't always receive what is confirmed - there are often changes in root stocks and crop failures can occur. Only after orders arrive are we certain of our stock.
Fruiting trees, berries and small fruits begin to arrive in February, and trickle in weekly through winter.
We plant all of our berries and small fruits in pots, and do not offer bare-root fruits.
We publish our buyers list of small fruits and nut trees in early spring.
** Crop failures may cause shortages and we cannot guarantee all varieties to be available. Our fruit trees arrive mainly in February-March, and often sell quickly.
Blueberries grow best in soils with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Our native soil in Portland is acidic, but it typically tests around 5.5 to 5.7, so it’s possible your soil pH should be lower in order to grow healthy blueberries. Testing the pH before adding any amendments is a good idea and it’s easy to do.
Elemental Sulphur and nitrogen fertilizers like Cottonseed Meal are good options for acidifying soil. Be sure to follow the directions on packaging regarding the amount and frequency of treatment. It’s a good idea to continue monitoring pH by testing about twice per year.
We do not recommend using Aluminum sulphate because it may produce negative side effects.
To adjust pH around existing plants, apply amendments to the drip line of the plant rather than at the base. This is the ground under the outer-most tips of the branch line where roots are more absorbent.
Information gleaned from this article from OSU Acidifying Soil for Blueberries. Check it out for a more in depth discussion on pH.
“My grape’s leaves have weird spots, crinkly, upraised blisters on the top, and white and upraised on the bottom of the leaf. What’s up?”
Grapes are hosts for several forms of mite, and this is caused by one. The damage is more reminiscent of fungal damage, but it is not. This particular pest goes by several names; rust mite, erineum mite, and eriophyid mite.
Each of the spots, or blisters, is a colony of these very small, worm-like mites. They generally do not cause a great loss of fruit, and is not an alarming problem in agriculture. This can be treated with dormant oils, and some publications list wettable sulfur as an in-season control.
Front and back of grape leaf with erineum mite colonies.
Pokeweed - This weed spreads by seed and comes up seemingly at random in different places year to year. Many parts of the plant are highly toxic, especially the berries and roots. When this is found on your property, we recommend removal, using full body clothing and gloves as a precaution. Sometimes children are attracted by the bright color of the berries.
English Laurel - These common screening shrubs have an almost black berry this time of the year that contains significant toxins. Though they are often too high up to be a threat to children, plants on your property could be searched for any low-lying berries that children might be attracted to. Toxic English laurel berries ripen to black.
English Holly - Despite their use as holiday decorations, these berries are toxic.
Yew berries - The pits of yew berries are very toxic. The bitter taste can turn off most ingestions, but it still one to teach your children to avoid.
Nightshade - This pretty vining weed has quite pretty flowers followed by red to purple red fruits. Unfortunately, the fruits are quite poisonous. We recommend removing this plant from your property, making sure the seeds do not fall and sprout.
"My plums and blueberries sprouted out, but then the new growth and blossoms died off, and some of the branches are dying back. What is going on?"
In early spring, you may see signs of blossom blight which are often some species of fungi called Monilinia. It causes withered new shoots and some twig or branch loss on blueberries as well as cherries, plums, and other Prunus species. The disease usually happens to plants that are already under stress.
Blossom blight occurs when the air-borne fungus is present, the temperatures are moderate, and the leaves/blossoms are moist. Basically I just described Portland in spring.
It can be deterred by pruning out effected branches or fruit in summer, using only moderate amounts of nitrogen fertilizer, and cleaning up thoroughly after autumn leaf fall. There are fungicides that are available to help control the problem if sprayed during and just after blossom.
We carry a wide variety year-round.
These are some of our favorites but represent only a fraction of what you will find at the nursery.