It’s time to start thinking about how you want your garden to look this summer, and a big part of that involves figuring out exactly how you’re going to be watering your plants throughout the season. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses are an excellent way to efficiently conserve water while also getting you into the habit of watering more evenly. And while wise water use will lessen your water bill and help your plants thrive, it’s good for the environment and local watershed too.

Here's a list for ways to more efficiently use water in your garden:

  • Mulch
  • Water deeply and less frequently, instead of often and shallowly.
  • Water early in the day.
  • Wherever you can, use soaker hoses or drip irrigation system.
  • If you use sprinklers, don't set them so high that they give off a mist, which will just uselessly evaporate away.

And speaking of water, if you happen to have a pond or other water feature in your garden, it’s time to start cleaning it up a bit—if you haven't already—and check that your pump is clean and in good working condition. Place mosquito dunks in your pond to keep mosquitos under control. If your pond has water lilies that were sunk for winter protection, it is time to raise them back up closer to the surface and feed with water lily fertilizer tabs (call for current availability).

Bee friendly

When Europeans came to North America, they brought along their food crops, as well as the perfect pollinator, the European honey bee.

Though native bees and other insects also serve as pollinators, the European honey bee provide most of the pollination for hundreds of our favorite food crops. The arrival of the Varroa mite in the 1980’s dealt bees a hard blow. In 2006 sudden, mysterious losses of hives began to occur, and scientists coined the term Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) to explain the phenomenon.

Read about CDC and Bee Friendly Gardens

• Creating a Bee Friendly Garden

How Colony Collapse Disorder Works

Bee Colony Collapses Are More Complex Than We Thought


Many insects, fungi, and bacteria can benefit your garden in one way or another. Beneficials come in many shapes and sizes and each help your garden in their own way, including controlling pests and pollinating plants.

Creating a suitable habitat in your garden will attract beneficials, helping you to have a sustainable garden and support native wildlife.

When relying on beneficials as a form of pest control you must be patient and tolerant of a few pests in your garden, and some damage to your plants. Without a few pests around your beneficials won’t have anything to eat!

Read more tips for Attracting Beneficial Insects

Perennials and Annuals

Well, it is annual planting season if ever there was one. Impatiens, petunias, salvia, bacopa… this list of available annuals could get quite long. Delay planting only if it is still unusually cold at night. There are only a few types not ready in May so come on down and get those pots and beds filled.

Ever heard of the thriller, filler, and spiller rule? The basic idea is to get a combination of plants with different growth habits to create a lush and full container display. Go to our Thriller-Filler-Spiller Page, where you will find a list of example plants from the three categories and also check out our Container Designs Page.

When planting your annuals, pay attention to the maximum spread and allow each individual a little room to grow. Adding granular time-release fertilizers after planting can help keep the plants fed for the next several weeks, helping to encourage vigorous growth and abundant flowers.

As for perennials, the season started a while back but continues now. Many heat-loving perennials are not available until May such as Echinacea and other daisy-like plants. Now is a great time to get both spring and summer bloomers to fill in those blank spots; it may be our best selection of the year.

As for your existing perennials, tidy and fertilize if you have not already done so this spring. Most perennials should be growing well now and can use the nutrition. Also, adding a thin layer of compost on top of the soil can improve the soil and temporarily suppress weeds. Get those peonies, dahlias, and other floppy growers caged so that the blooms will stand up well later on. It is best to get the cage set before the plant has grown up to the height of the grid or ring; if the plant is already tall be careful to gently tuck the foliage into it. This is probably the last acceptable time for any dividing before the heat of summer.

Now or in June is the best time for planting heat loving tuberous plants such as begonia and dahlia. For those bulbs that are blooming or just finished, go ahead and feed them if you have not yet done so this season. Do not remove green leaves from bulbs even if they are floppy. They usually only last a while and the plants need to be absorbing as much sunlight as possible.

Pests are definitely rearing their ugly little heads. Aphids are spreading rapidly, and uncontrolled slug populations can get large this time of year. These can be controlled with insecticidal sprays or baits, many of which are safe for people and pets if not misused. With aphids, a quick glance at the new growth or blossoms can give them away. Look for the soft bodies of any color and dandruff-like molted skins on or near the new leaves. If you have seen what looks like saliva on rosemary, lavender, and other plants you are seeing spittlebugs. While unsightly, they are usually fairly harmless.

Sometimes people mistake hail damage on leaves for insect damage. Consider that possibility when you see holes in the leaves. We can help to identify such questions/problems, of course.

Trees, Shrubs and Fruit

May is a great time for planting woody plants. We have an excellent selection for purchases at this time. The soil is warming and drying a bit, and digging shouldn’t be too hard at this point. When preparing the planting site, remember that the soil underneath the root ball should not be loose; it will compact later and the stem will end up buried too far, often killing the plant. This is especially true of balled-and-burlap (B&B) trees that have a clay-based soil in the root ball.

This is also a fine time for feeding your established trees and shrubs if you have not done so recently. Mature trees or large shrubs may not need feeding; judge this on their performance. If they grow and bloom just fine, it probably isn’t necessary.

Roses are just getting ready for their first blooms of the year. Feed them as well (if you have not recently), and watch for pests. Aphids may have set in, and fungal diseases such as black spot may be starting to grow.

As established hedges start to grow, this may be a good time to trim for size and shape. Lightly feeding them as well can encourage that fresh flush of growth to minimize the time that they look like they were just cut. Of course, this might mean more frequent pruning with fast growers.

Rhododendrons and other spring flowering evergreens can be pruned just after bloom. This may be the only good time of year for mild to moderate pruning of rhodies because pruning late in the year can ruin the flowers for next year.

With most shrubs, the trimming just mentioned is for mild trimming for size and shape. Removal of large branches is often better for the plant if done in winter.



May is generally the first month recommended for planting most warm-season vegetables, such as tomatoes and eggplants, but you’ll need to keep them protected until the temps are steadily above 50°F—and that usually happens around mid-June. Some people start their squashes and melons in May, although June is often a better time for them as well.

For those who have already planted but are worried about chilly nights there are products to help a bit. Red plastic mulch around the plant or plastic tubes to be filled with water are sold here, and they can keep the plant a bit warmer.

If you did not do so already, make sure to add some lime to your soil when you plant your fruiting vegetables (tomatoes, squash, peppers, etc). This is especially important for tomatoes and squashes, as it helps to prevent blossom end rot.

If you started seeds indoors or in a greenhouse, it may be warm enough to acclimate them to outside temperatures and plant them, but watch for chilly nights; they will be susceptible to cold damage.

It is not too late for most greens and cole crops (cabbages, broccoli, and their kin), but the sooner the better. If it gets hot early in the growing season they may bolt, ruining the crop. Please refer to our vegetable planting calendar for further timing details.

Indoor Plants

Wash the leaves of indoor plants and check/treat for pests and diseases. If you suspect you have a problem with a plant and are not sure what it is, bring a sample to our Info Desk. We carry a full line of safe products for houseplants and tropicals.

It's time to be feeding most indoor plants, as they actively put on growth. We have several types of indoor plant food and recommend Dyna-Gro Pro as a good, all-around fertilizer. Give us a call if you have questions on feeding or care of specific indoor plants.

Start setting houseplants outside in a shady location for some fresh air. If you have any questions about particular plants and where they like to spend their spring and summer, feel free to call either of our locations (for houseplant questions, some members of our Division Street Staff are especially knowledgeable; that location has the broader selection of houseplants and tropicals and therefore the opportunity for more personal experience).

Seasonal Gardening

Visit individual month pages for gardening ideas. Pages are regularly updated with projects for that month.